We see so many red carpets from all over the world and I’d be surprised if you haven’t, at least once, tried to replicate your favourite celebrities look to no avail. I’ve got news: if you’re not quite nailing that red carpet worthy eye, it may very well be that you are over-complicating the look.
A lot of women think celebrities wear a lot of makeup and that there are heaps of steps involved in their look. This may be the case occasionally, especially for a photo shoot when things do have to be perfect, but for many cases — especially with today’s trends of the nude, lived in makeup look —a few products is all you need. It’s how you use them that is key.
As a makeup artist, I used to have the biggest kit, with endless makeup, but it was heavy to carry from job-to-job and makeup today is more about the use of contouring and minimal product. So I cleansed by kit and found I could achieve the same looks with less. This is great news all round, as it means looks are easy to achieve and take less time to apply – winning!
Most celebrities I work with are time poor and my call times are getting shorter and shorter, so us makeup artist folk can whip up an eye in no time for real life situations (like a red carpet) and we can leave the time consuming applications to the photographic studios!
Basics of Eye Makeup
If you know highlight and shade and what applying each can do to the eye area, you have a great advantage, as that determines all my makeup decisions and not just for eyes.
Reminder:
- To Highlight, is to bring forward an area of the face – it makes things look larger or more pronounced.
- To Shade, is to recede an areas for the face, normally creating a hollow to re-define an area, creating sharper features.
Sounds good right?
Knowing this should help you understand if what you are doing to your eye area is correct. With every application of product, look at its texture, finish and colour, they can all be adding highlight or shade.
MB PRO TIP;
The deeper the colour the more shade you are applying. The more matte the colour is, the more shade you are applying. Reverse and it is the same principle for highlight.
Contouring the Eye
Contouring — you know that craze everyone’s going on about — is essentially the use of highlight and shade to the face. It can lift and can actually be quite anti-ageing when used correctly.
For the eye, we should be highlighting;
- Peak of Brow – nothing to white or overpowering as it can draw too much focus forward and cause the eye to be deepest if not careful.
- Mobile eye lid – this does not have to be super light, it can be as subtle as using a similar pigment to your chosen shade tone, but in a metallic finish to catch the light
- Inner tear duct – for some looks it can be a bright colour or quite a focal light point or if can be as simple as a using a shade one or two shades lighter or metallic than your other eye makeup tone. It does illuminate that area, which often can get quite dark, and it tends to distract attention away from dark shadows – gotta love that!
Areas to shade;
This is really important in the eye socket area, one area that can sometimes feel to scary or too high up the area to put such deep colours, but a shade tone can be as simple as using a matte bronzer.
The top and lower lash lines can be smoked up with a shade tone also – this is quite a common application – but if there are any signs of puffiness or a heavy lid, or perhaps you have an Asian eye which is more forward and have less socket, then a simple matte shade tone is your answer for instant lift in your eye socket region.
MB PRO TIP;
Application for this is from outer (slightly deeper and usually where I start application because of this) to inner (don’t be afraid to shade all the way to he inner eye socket and even slightly to the sides of the nose)
Are you surprised that deeper tones give lift? Well when you know that they create a hollow, it makes sense they will do the same if placed on a puffy or full area – ever so slimming, don’t all go rushing for your bronzer at once now.
Red Carpet Eye with 3 Products Tutorial
Let’s say the rest of your makeup has been applied; foundation is on, concealer applied under the eye and a slight layer for a good bond on the top eye lid and a face highlighter has been used above cheekbones, Cupid bow of lip, centre of the face and the peak of brow…
We are ready for action!
Step 1 – MATTE BRONZER or TAUPE TONE
Apply your shade tone, or stencil as I call it as it shapes, lifts and maps out our eye shape.
I like a small amount on the mobile lid, heavier on the top and lower lash lines, especially in the outer corner and more importantly, the socket area as this is where we have most of our concern.
Once I feel I have applied enough into the socket area, with the eyes open, looking ahead naturally, I can see the natural folds of the eye. It is now, with the eyes open that I blend and make sure we have taken the shade tone high enough to recede any unwanted areas away. The depth is your choice for what occasion you are going too as you can keep building the colour.
Step 2 – SOFT EYELINER/KOHL PENCIL
When you have created your eye makeup shape and stencil — hopefully lifting that socket — it’s time to add depth. The great thing about this technique is that it is super quick and you don’t have to be a pro at eyeliner application to master it.
Apply at top and lower lash line – the thicker the line, the more intensity it will deliver. Once your line is there, use a thin, small brush and move (smudge) the liner upwards into the mobile eyelid and even to the socket for a deeper look.
This technique gives smokey eye quickly, adds intensity to the eye without eye shadow fallout and is buildable so you can keep adding to your look throughout the night – it basically turns a liner into looking like a smooth shadow.
Step 3 – MASCARA
Lashes MAKE a red Carpet look, as it pulls everything together.
Spend time really combing the wand/bristles through your lashes. Always start at the root and not the tip as you may weigh lashes down and only zig zag if lashes are short, as if they are long, they can sway ad clump together.
Don’t forget about the lower lashes – be gentle and once again comb through gently. I often do the lower lashes first, as if I do the top lashes, then straight to the lower and look up, I don’t get any transfer to the eyelid.
The Bronzer being a warm colour gives lift to mobile eyelid.
The Eyeliner gives depth and definition to the lash line.
The Mascara seals the deal!
Just add brow pencil and a lip – Red Carpet ready. Makeup in today’s world really is simple as everything is layered, blended and lived in – realistic beauty is the go ladies!
Image: Zimbio
