Aquascutum shuts its UK manufacturing plant, Roberto Cavalli has a few words to say about US cookie-cutter fashion and Oscar de La Renta will open his first London store in Mount Street.
The luxury British fashion house – which announced it had gone into administration earlier this week – says closing its production plant was a tough but inescapable decision.
A spokesperson for the administrators said, “Whilst a difficult decision, it has been necessary in order to stem on-going losses for the business, and to protect the positions of the 135 remaining employees. We plan to provide appropriate assistance to all affected employees, including liaising with Jobcentre plus and helping with claims to the Redundancy Payments Service. All head office and retail operations across the UK and international high street, concession and outlet stores are operating as usual at present.”
The company is in the process of looking for a buyer, and is hopeful that a suitable investor will be found soon.
The spokesperson added, “We have received a high level of interest from potential purchasers from around the world, with our focus now upon progressing discussions for a sale of the Aquascutum brand and assets.”
Founded in 1851, Aquascutum – which has three UK stores, along with 16 concession shops – has been worn by Cary Grant, Humphrey Bogart and the late Queen Mother.
The Italian fashion designer is disgusted by the state of the industry in America and he places part of the blame on US Vogue magazine editor Anna Wintour.
He said, “Just look at American fashion, which is almost fashion. It’s terrible and you almost can’t look at it, but it has been driven by a great journalist – Anna Wintour – who wants all women to be like her and to dress the way she does.”
Roberto has urged younger designers to break away from the mould and “try to be different and try to create artistic styles” for their designs to have a chance of “actually being worn”.
He added to Italian newspaper La Repubblica, “I see young people coming out of design schools and they are too minimalist.
“Probably because their professors are minimalist, because they in turn have professors who follow styles of designs that are too industrial and commercial.
“I can only say try to be different and try to create artistic styles. Then the clothes can be transformed, changed and modified to take into account wearability and the possibility of actually being worn.”
The New York-based designer will open his first London doors in the premise formerly occupied by hairdresser Nicky Clarke for over 20 years.
The store will neighbour Roland Mouret and Jenny Packham, and be opposite the Connaught Hotel, in a deal said to be worth more than £500,000.
Nicky’s former wife and business partner Lesley Clarke told London’s Evening Standard newspaper, “The rent was due to go up, as it does everywhere. But we felt this was a good time to move – we are relaunching ourselves. Sometimes a brand needs to move to be fresh. If we weren’t happy we wouldn’t have moved and stayed with the same landlord. We have come to an amicable, compatible agreement. Grosvenor [the landlord] has made the move painless but there certainly wasn’t any bribe.”
Oscar, who was born in the Dominican Republic, is rumoured to be paying close to £1 million for the lease.
