From the creative highs to the fashion week fails, Emma Read saw it all. Read on for her highlights of the week.
As the 20th anniversary of Australian Fashion Week, the inclination to kick up your heels (ladies and men included) was reverberating more than ever. With the schedule missing some notable names this year – sans Alex Perry and Dion Lee – I was curious; would the mood fall flat? Not so, it seems, with a celebratory vibe from beginning to the final model walk out.
Opening night Ellery kicked everyone into gear with a super high-energy soundtrack, delivering a collection littered with her signature silhouettes – think billowy sleeves, flares, and layer upon layer of delicious shirting and tailoring. The whispers of an appearance of Gemma Ward were confirmed as she made her official MBFWA entrance opening the show, ethereal as ever in a floor-length black silk gown. This was a show – confetti canons and all (which also should be name checked as a trend for this week – I’m still pulling silver glitter out of my hair).
Tome was the next cab off the rank and continued the louche tailoring that’s proven to be a hit thus far; a winner all round from the closing beaded sheath dresses to snippets of old-school Madonna in the soundtrack.
Bec & Bridge took a left turn from the slew of suiting we’d seen thus far, turning up the heat with a 70’s Talitha Getty throwback mixing terracotta silks, paisleys, pleating and their debut swim collection into the foray as their muse of the season.
By Johnny pushed his signature body-con silhouettes to new industrial heights with added additions of chunky clip straps and mesh – think a 90’s Liz Hurley in that Versace dress via Bladerunner.
Aje brought the glamour in their signature beading; the jam-packed front row a complete testament to their cult following of girls-about-town.
The couture moment everyone had been waiting for arrived at Maticevski; a sea of pastels moved into metallics and dramatic blacks at the finale, all embedded in his masterful, insanely precise cuts.
Michael Lo Sordo followed on that feeling with a sea of knife-pleated numbers – many a red carpet moment to be found here.
More comfortable in the gym over a gown? Easy – We Are Handsome whipped their signature prints into activewear, also reminding me to perhaps reconsider my spring roll consumption at the Star Lounge.
Best newcomer award goes to Macgraw – their second outing at MBAFW saw a ‘modern day Shepard girl’ re-interpreted with a cheeky French attitude, playful in lace, pinafores and peacoats. Complete with smiling models and a pink carpeted runway, their mood was infectious – finally, an ‘up’ moment!
So what are we wearing? Suiting, and lots of it – easy, fluid shapes with no rigidity to be seen. Flares are a must, as is white on white on white. Pastels trickled through, as did prints – think florals at Ginger & Smart, digital prints at Manning Cartell and mosaics/stripes at Lee Matthews. Sportswear shapes have taken a slightly Japanese turn, with tunics paired over pants complete with obi-style belts everywhere. Neckwear is the accessory to be had – draped elegantly with a ‘40’s take, sans knotting.
SS 15/16 is looking bright, with plenty of fresh ideas to get excited about for next season, all in our signature Aussie way – all ease, no fuss.
