I got asked last week, “Is blush even used anymore, it seems to be all about the contour.”
It may seem that way, but even the contouring craze, or the severity of it, has taken a step back. Now showcasing a more fresh approach to sculpting the face and definitely includes blush for that touch of glow and fullness.
Blush – like any beauty trend – can come and go, but the reasoning behind blush and its placement is so relevant in today’s world of natural, yet polished skin and of course, adding glow!
We have had a full year of intense contouring trends. Some working perfectly to lift and sculpt ones face, but some (mainly the instagram ‘Art’ beauty looks) looking obvious, stripy or even making our face look dull – as less colour has been used on the cheeks of late.
image via Zimbio
WHY BLUSH?
My gran used to pinch her cheeks before going out, to get that fresh light pink hue and at the time I thought it was so weird, until I learnt the tricks of Makeup Artistry. Now I understand that by adding that little touch of pink to her cheek area, it was giving her face a fresh lift, but also a slight plumping effect.
The role of blush is to add colour back to the face, especially after foundation application.
Yes, some women may go overboard, trying to use a blush hue to where a contour shade should be applied, giving a very bright cheek area. Whereas blush has a very distinct area it needs to be worn.
The apple of the cheek – the rounded part of the front of the cheek that lifts when you smile – is the perfect blush placement.
Adding a brighter shade than your skin tone to this area will act like a highlight, reflecting light and therefore plumping the area.
BLUSH VS. CONTOUR
In my opinion they are the perfect match when used together as they do very different things and it all comes down to understanding light and shade.
A contour (or shade tone) is matte and is usually deep in colour (like a bronze/taupe shade) whereas blush is brighter and can have a sheen to it.
Any type of shade tone is used to recede an area to re-shape, lift and sculpt and when we are talking cheeks, a shade tone should only be placed under the cheekbone for great lift of the face – starting application from hairline, blending down and under for the ultimate sculpt.
This technique is really like a ‘support bra’ for the cheekbones.
Blush on the other hand is used to plump an area and give colour, rather than sculpt it.
But when used together, you achieve the perfect balance of cheekbone lift, yet a fresh colour to brighten your overall complexion and not look gaunt by an over contoured effect.
APPLICATION OF BLUSH
Blush should be a very quick and easy product to apply as it is worn on a very small part of the face – the apple of the cheek.
Yes it can blend into the rest of the cheekbone area, so its not a round circle, but it really does not need to be applied all the way up to the hairline.
A lot of women move their face into positions, like a smile and then apply their blush. This is great to show off the apple of cheek area more clearly, but if you have any expression lines on the skin, the blush can go over this, making the lines more visible.
I like to make my clients smile to see the area, then relax and apply on that direct spot. This way blush is worn how the face is seen most of the day, in a relaxed state, and this goes for the rest of the face also – stretching areas to lift, plump, pull them can make the application unrealistic.
Powder Blush
I love to use a small fluffy brush (nothing too large as the colour will take over the face) and apply in soft circular movements.
Blush is build-able, so less is best.
MB PRO TIP;
Also remember that blush is there to lift, so it is applied on and slightly above the cheekbone, whereas a contour shade is underneath the cheekbone to cut in and sculpt.
Cream + Gel Blush
It’s all about the fingertips when using these textures. By using dabbing and massaging movements, the warm of the fingertip helps melt the product into the skin.
These textures can also be build-able, but are perfect for a ‘blush from within’ look or for dry skin.
Cream blush (I sometimes use lipstick for this) are great for first time wearers as if you apply to much, you can literally massage the colour away. Powders are harder to remove and gel is more of a stain effect.
SHADES
Blush can come in multiple shades, but the most common would be in the pink and peach family.
You can get deeper shades also, which could be used as a slight contour for the right skin tone, but a traditional blush is used to add colour, not sculpt.
Pink
These for me are more for the olive skin or someone that lacks colour.
If I see any natural pink tones coming through the skin, I will then avoid a pink blush as it may bring more unwanted pink tones out from the skin.
Deeper the skin tone, deeper the pink blush should be. 
*Zoeva Pink Spectrum Blush RRP $36 – Sephora.com.au
Peach
The most universal of all blush shades. It can warm up and brighten fair skin, plus compliment olive skin.
When there are pink tones present in the skin, I would opt for more peach style shades to add warmth, this gives balance to the pink-based skin.
*Zoeva Coral Spectrum Blush RRP $36 – Sephora.com.au
TO BLUSH, OR NOT TO BLUSH
Apart from adding a highlighter above the cheekbone (right on the bone) to get extra lift, and contrast from the shade tone underneath, blush is the best way to plump and achieve fuller cheeks.
The only time I would avoid applying blush is if you have a very round or heart shape face. Blush does add fullness, so a contour alone may work best for any face that has a little puffiness and/or wider cheeks.
Blush is perfect for anyone that needs fullness, colour and if your skin is heading south or looking gaunt.
The ultimate skin refresher!
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