Behind The Scenes At Chanel Couture Fall/Winter 2013-14
It’s haute couture week in Paris – and thus far our winner for most elaborate set has to be Chanel.
Set in the famous Grand Palais, head designer Karl Lagerfeld transformed the gigantic space into a futuristic cityscape viewed through a half-ruined theatre. It was show within show within show, a little laugh at the whole performance’s expense, while still being awe-inspiringly stunning.
There were clear influences from Metropolis, Bladerunner, Brave New World and other literary and film classics – all uniting into one vision.
But was it utopian or dystopian? The clothes showed that, for Lagerfeld at least, the future was going to be bright – if a little chilly.
The hair was high and the silhouettes harsh, but still chic and 1940s-sharp. Shades of blues, greys and blacks are clearly in for next year’s winter.
The shoes were ‘as light as lingerie’, according to Lagerfeld – light beautiful suede flats, almost 19th century – and jewels encrusted the models all the way to the ends of the fingers. The future is evidently going to be a luxe place.
“It’s a transition from the old world to the new world,” said Lagerfeld to reporters – but this new world feels very strongly like the post-war New Look updated with modern, chaotic mixes of fabrics.
We’re expecting to see it on many red carpets, too – Aussies Rose Byrne and Baz Luhrmann took in the show, along with Vanessa Paradis and basically any other fashionista you care to name.
One of the biggest surprises? His choice of lead model. Erin Wasson is more associated with beachy, edgy glamour – she’s the face of Zadig & Voltaire, sports huge amounts of tattoos and produces her own line of intensely hipster jewellery.
And yet there she was beside Lagerfeld, flexing her tatted arms and goofing about in his final, bridal couture gown, which showed off thin layers of tattered chiffon.
It was a show all about contrasts – and apparently the phones have been ringing off the hook at Chanel ever since as couture buyers try to get their hands on just one of those divine coats.
What do you think of the Chanel show?
Images: Chanel F/W 2013 haute couture.
Jourdan Dunn Fired From Dior Show For Boob Size
Dior has been criticised in the past for having one of the whitest armies of catwalk models in the business.
So it was a change when Jourdan Dunn, one of the biggest African-American modelling stars currently working, revealed she had been fired from their couture show – but not for her skin colour.
It turns out, as Dunn gleefully tweeted, that her boobs were the wrong size.
Considering she’s an A cup, this may not have been a problem for most shows – but this is Couture Week, when the models are so thin rumours circulate of survival on cotton balls soaked in orange juice.
Dunn took the news well – “I’m normally told I’m cancelled because I’m ‘coloured’ so being cancelled because of my boobs is a minor,” she tweeted.
Dior’s show, when it came out without Dunn, was more racially diverse than anybody had expected. Six black models and several Chinese faces walked, and model bookers took note that Dior was now open to more than the usual Slavic pale cheekbones.
It looks like Hedi Slimane’s Dior is more accepting of colour – if not perhaps of bigger bosoms.
Image: Jourdan Dunn.
Who Was Best-Dressed At Couture Week?
The best part of Couture Week isn’t the fashion, or the parties, or the ridiculous interviews with the designers. It’s the front row fashion.
And we’ve already had several heavy hitters – and some disasters.
Jennifer Lawrence is on an exclusive contract to Dior – that’s why she wore that enormous pink confection to the Oscars – and so wears them to every public event she can. This time, however, she looked decidedly long-suffering.
Why? Dior’s wisest and brightest dressed her in a neon lace belly shirt and wide silk trousers. Hopefully she thinks the money’s worth it.
Also not quite making it work was Kristen Stewart, who showed up to see Chanel’s show in a long white tweed jacket, short shorts and – presumably because of her punky image – biker gloves.
It looked uncomfortable, hot and a bit strange, but nothing compared to Rihanna’s ensemble at the same show.
She wore a cardigan. And that was all.
Yes, Karl Lagerfeld dressed her in a floor-length white cardigan and some pearls, and she buttoned it only where absolutely necessary. At least she was probably more comfortable than Kirsten.
Our winners for the front row? Uma Thurman showed up at Versace looking like a billion dollars in an LBD and milkmaid plaits, and when everybody wasn’t staring at Naomi Campbell on the catwalk they were crowding for a picture.
And Alexa Chung lucked out with a stunning lace-sleeved mini shift at Chanel.
But our pick for most fabulous has to be Leelee Sobieski, who somehow managed to take a denim Dior jumpsuit, pair it with a red lip and make it look like the chicest thing of 2013.
Who do you think has nailed the couture front row?
Images: Front row fashion.
Alexander Wang ‘Looked At Balenciaga Archives In Secret’
Alexander Wang is the new head of Balenciaga – but apparently he took quite a lot of convincing.
The head of the label, Francois Pinault, was so persistent he sabotaged his own security to help Wang make his decision.
Wang initially said no to the Creative Directorship – “I’d be the most hated man in fashion!” he told Vogue – but Pinault wasn’t taking that for an answer.
So to convince him, he let him look at the exclusive Balenciaga archives in France.
But the paparazzi and fashion journalists from around the world were following their every moves to sniff out rumours – so the viewing was conducted at night.
Not only that, but Pinault conspired to switch off the security cameras at the facility, so no news of the potential new designer could slip out.
Wang didn’t take off with a ton of Balenciaga archival material, but he could have. Instead, he went home, consulted a psychic who told him to take the job, and struck the deal.
It may not be traditional (or legal), but it certainly did the trick.
Image: Alexander Wang.