If you have a highly trained olfactory sense like yours truly, the common perfume may not be enough to satisfy your fragrance cravings. These are my top picks of cult and specialty fragrances new and old for lovers and collectors of exquisite perfume that make an impression and linger long on the memory. Plus, I chat to fragrance connoisseur Carlos Huber on what makes a speciality fragrance.
by Bahar Etminan, Rescu. Editor and Founder
As his Arquiste collection hits our shores, I sat down with renowned perfumer Carlos Huber to talk fragrance.
Bahar Etminan: You’re a Historic Preservation architect, how do you apply this knowledge to your fragrances?
Carlos Huber: Arquiste looks to the past for inspiration, but it remains a firmly contemporary project, rather like the concept of “Preservation” itself. The aim is to re-imagine olfactive experience tied to a specific time and place, and to connect it with our present. That’s an important concern in historic cities today.
Bahar Etminan: What makes a specialist fragrance?
Carlos Huber: A specialist fragrance is one that focuses on the actual “juice”; what matters is the fragrance, and not the marketing or the campaign behind it. That said, every fragrance brand has a unique credo and concept, and even ways of production (artisanal or more professional), but we all support the notion of using top quality ingredients that are out of the budget of mass-market fragrances.
Bahar Etminan: What is your favourite fragrance from the Arquiste collection and why?
Carlos Huber: I have three that I wear the most often (Fleur de Louis, Anima Dulcis and Boutonniere No.7) and out of those Boutonniere No.7 is my current favorite, since its a nice balance between the fresh, green, jungly smelling facet of the gardenia and a headier, mossy background. The idea is to evoke the most elegant way for a man to wear a flower… as a boutonniere.
ARQUISTE fragrances will be available from BECKER MINTY in Potts Point and online at www.beckerminty.com from 9th April 2013 RRP: $185
Carlos’ arrival got me thinking about my top cult and speciality fragrance picks, here they are:
Fragrance heaven is Chanel 1932. Fresh from the Les Exclusifs de Chanel collection this fine and powdery-floral perfume envelops sumptuous notes of jasmine, bergamot, lilac and ylang-ylang transporting us to a sunny day on the Champs-Élysées. The inspiration for this creation lies in the first collection of fine jewelry of this house that was presented in 1932.
There’s something extra sexy about a fragrance for him and her and cult fragrance house Dyptique has been making memories since 1966 with Philosykos. The woody aromatic is fig tree in all its glory, fig leaves, the green fruit, milky sap, and a touch of white cedar.
Jo Malone regularly has us weak at the knees, and the new Osmanthus Blossom Cologne (avail May 5) is our very own oasis, as the days get colder in the Rescu. office. Delicate and exotic and utterly feminine, the fragrance that captures apricot counter-poised with supple leather combined with gorgeous notes of osmanthus blossom.
You can’t top life advice blended in a fragrance and Philosophy’s living grace teaches us the beauty of living in the moment. The fragrance features fresh neroli, soft clean lily and a warm musk note and we can’t get enough.
Finally hitting our shores, the seductress in you needs only to wear the Petale Noir by Agent Provocateur to unlock instant romance. The mysterious oriental floral Petale Noir is highly sensual and rich comprising lotus, magnolia, violet leaf, hyacinth, ylang-ylang, neroli, black currant blossom notes to name a few…
Launched in 1956, the legendary Creed Fleurissimo was originally commissioned for Grace Kelly’s wedding day. This sumptuous floral is a true expression of Old Hollywood and your dimly lit boudoir will not be complete without the perfume whose notes include bergamot, tuberose, Bulgarian Rose, violet, Florentine iris and ambergris.
