Chanel
It’s always amazing to me the way in which Karl Lagerfeld stays so true to the legacy of Chanel herself, while continually offering something new. And this time, he was looking quite broadly at her back catalogue, naming the show Les Allures de Chanel. The tweed suits this time around had peplums over the pencil skirts, a recurring theme throughout the show, with the shape echoed in tops and jackets. In a couple of instances, 1930s-style floral dresses were updated with the addition of mesh sleeves beneath. The feather and beading work was, as always, breathtaking to behold.
Jean Paul Gaultier
Call it the Black Swan effect, but this dance-themed collection put a balletic spin on some of Gaultier’s most classic pieces; no-one does a pin-stripe suit or a trench like him, especially when there are bursts of tulle involved when you least expect it. Mostly the references were a little veiled: tulle layers peeked out from beneath full skirts and hooded cloaks retained a sense of drama. Elsewhere they were a little more obvious, such as a black mini-tutu with biker-inspired jacket. Fur and feathers also went flying down the catwalk, trimming everything from coats to necklines worthy of an evil queen onstage.
Christian Dior
The first couture show by John Galliano’s right-hand man, Bill Gaytten, was on the mark of occasion. There were certain Galliano traits in evidence (plenty of drama), and the overall styling was as over-the-top as ever, thanks to the usual crack team behind the scenes. But it was also considered a bit of a mish-mash. One minute there were New Look-inspired bar jackets, the next ’70s-inspired day dresses and maxis in wild prints, then floral appliqués sprouted forth willy nilly. And the gowns went from full-skirted ball gowns (albeit slightly lacking in the usual Galliano gravitas) to an alarming striped, pleated maxi dress.
Armani Privé
Giorgio Armani’s homage to Japan was a beautiful marriage of tradition and looking to the future. The collection was largely underpinned in black, accented with bold colour and prints, including those inspired by kimono fabrics, such as cherry blossoms and waves, as well as a simple fan print in black and white. Obi belts cinched waists in true kimono style. Particularly sweet were the printed trouser ensembles with wrap tops.
Azzedine Alaïa
By all reports, Azzedine Alaïa was one of the highlights of the week, presenting his first couture show and his first show of any sort in eight years. There was apparently even a standing ovation at the end, no mean feat for jaded fashion front rows. As is always the case for Alaïa, everything was an homage to the female form, even the coat dresses that in someone else’s hands might have been clunky and unflattering; the tier-skirted column dresses managed the same feat. And aside from the exquisite brocade finale gowns, my pick is a shorter hooded dress with short sleeves and a fluted, furry skirt. A true artist.
