When pop culture and fashion collide, a trend can be born that cuts a swathe through even the most jaded of style mavens. Mad Men kicked off the ladylike trend, making us all wish for a time when you could have three martinis over lunch (and that was before your entrée arrived) and wear kitten heels with a wiggle skirt to the office. Then Miuccia Prada tapped the vein, as she inevitably does, sending out a collection of full-skirted, wasp-waisted dresses with subversively sexy cutouts for her Fall 2010 collection. And suddenly, women wanted to look like ladies again.
It’s also something of a backlash against all the too-tight, too-short, fierce fashion that has been dominating catwalks and magazine pages for the past few seasons. And breathe…
Who says so?
Well, as mentioned, when Miuccia speaks, she must be obeyed. But Marc Jacobs is another fashion oracle, and his collection for Louis Vuitton for autumn/winter (now in store) hit the same retro, ladylike chord. At the recent spring/summer shows, Oscar de la Renta, too, sent out prim ladies who lunch in checked pencil skirts and cinched waists, while Proenza Schouler’s women were slightly more loosened up. There’s a certain lightness that has also come into fashion with this trend, which was seen in the showings from Chanel and Valentino.
Colour and shape
The current trend towards lighter colours—pastels, nudes and pale metallics—all suit this trend and make it more current. However, the retro nature of the look means that bolder colours and certainly prints are all good bedfellows. The move towards plaids, checks and gingham are all in keeping, as are florals—bold, subtle or otherwise. There are key silhouettes here. Firstly, tops are always cut close to the body, but not clingy as in stretchy bodycon pieces. Skirts go one of two ways: either full-skirted (gathered at the waist or in a ¾ or full-circle) or slimline pencil skirts. Hemlines are on the knee or just below, not above. You can add waist-length cardigans or jackets to top off the look.
Accessories
All silhouettes are cinched at the waist—so a belt can be a good addition to further define your assets. Don’t go for anything too chunky, a simple slimline belt is ideal, or one that can do a little corset work for you. Kitten heels are the perfect shoe here, or a clean pump. For daywear, look for ballet flats, especially sweet with a full patterned skirt. Handbags can be retro and structured, and go for smaller rather than the enormous, shapeless things we’ve been toting around. Jewellery should be kept simple and, dare I say, tasteful. Bling has no place here.
Find it now
Net-a-porter for Oscar de la Renta, Chloé bow-front dress, Jason Wu pink print dress, pencil skirts from Antonio Berardi, Alexander McQueen and Vivienne Westwood, full skirts from Preen and Jason Wu, bow-front kitten heels from Giambattista Valli and patent pumps from Miu Miu; Burberry for pencil skirts, ruched and panelled; Christian Louboutin for crystal-embellished kitten heels; Jimmy Choo for nude patent kitten heels; Jayson Brunsdon for pretty daydresses and full skirts; vintage stores for original 1950s and ’60s dresses, skirts and blouses.
Ladylike equation
Full skirt + buttoned blouse + kitten heel = Betty Draper’s best
Labels to name drop…
Prada
Louis Vuitton
Proenza Schouler
Oscar de la Renta
Image courtesy of Style.com
