Comments on the ins and outs at luxury houses continue with revered fashion commentator Colin McDowell saying Christian Dior needs an ‘untested’ designer at the helm, while Tod’s confirmed in a statement that they are looking to hire a new creative director for the brand.
The French fashion house has been looking for a new creative director for almost a year following the sacking of John Galliano for his anti-Semitic behavior and Colin thinks they should go for fresh blood rather than an established name.
Writing for the Business of Fashion, he said, “And so we come to the tragic case of Dior. And it is tragic on more levels than one: that a label needs a designer and that a man, for all his transgressions, needs a job. Fashion needs that man.
“To insert Bill Gaytten – an undisputedly brilliant technician, but not a designer – into the gap at Dior can be nothing but a temporary solution. It’s high time this gap was closed. But why not with somebody young and untested, as Yves Saint Laurent was when he took over the reins at Dior at the tender age of 21 and went on to revolutionise women’s clothes? I still believe that designers with genius and courage, traits which are invariably independent of age, are more likely to thrive at a grand Paris label than at brands in any of the world’s other fashion capitals at this point.”
Names that have been linked to the post include Raf Simons, Christopher Kane and Marc Jacobs.
Although Tod’s claims Derek Lam won’t leave his post at the Italian leather goods house until his contract ends in September, they have conceded they are searching for someone who can “commit the necessary amount of time to the success of the brand”.
A statement released by the company said, “Following the rumours of an alleged termination of the collaboration between Tod’s and Derek Lam, the company confirms that the agreement between the parties is set to terminate on 30.09.12. In the meantime, Tod’s is in the process of evaluating its options, considering that, based on the company’s future development plans, the role of the creative director of Tod’s will be central and even more important. The choice will therefore be directed toward an individual with great creative talent and able to commit the necessary amount of time to the success of the brand.”
During his time at the luxury brand, Derek continued to design for his eponymous label which is renowned for its pretty, girly fabrics backed by clean, crisp silhouettes.
Signature pieces include raw silk sheath dresses with plunging necklines, wide-leg trousers in various wools and dainty cashmere pea coats cinched with stiff silk belts.
The fashion rumour mill is certainly now in overdrive.
