Things really hotted up at Milan Fashion Week for spring/summer 2012. From Prada’s hotrod motifs to Emilio Pucci’s sexy gypsies and Gucci’s decadent Deco dresses.
Mid-riffing
One of the trends that really took hold was the return of the midriff—and anyone who survived the 1980s (and some of the ’90s) will remember this only too well. Crop tops turned up everywhere from Prada (with its elasticised bandeaux), to Emilio Pucci (left), Dolce & Gabbana, Versus and D&G, revealing that taught bit of tummy and sometimes, depending on the rise of skirts and trousers, even a belly button or two. If you don’t want to reveal too much, you can take the Versus route and put crop tops over sheer undertops, suggesting more than you reveal.
More than meets the eye
Speaking of concealing and revealing, there was a certain subversiveness to many of this season’s collections. Dolce & Gabbana (left) sent out a cavalcade of sexy housewives, adorned in 1950s-inspired day dresses and seaside-worthy bloomers and crop tops emblazoned with bold vegetable prints. (Eggplant frock, anyone?) But while some silhouettes were demure, they were sometimes executed in sheer fabrics, revealing sexy retro lingerie beneath. That would heat up more than the hotplates.
And of course, Prada’s (left) pretty-in-pink pleats and chiffon were adorned with hotrod motifs and flames that suggested that these good girls might enjoy more than a little turn around the racetrack. Jil Sander also presented a demure façade, with 1930s-inspired dresses as well as a swathe of frocks based on the classic white shirt. Again, however, there were sheer panels, plunging necklines and strict lace-up boots that were a little at odds with a truly serene demeanour.
Taking the Plunge
Speaking of plunging necklines, they have been a recurring theme in Milan especially, and nowhere better than at Giorgio Armani (left) and his other line, Emporio Armani. Others taking the plunge (ahem) included Gucci, Etro and Alberta Ferretti. And like the midriff trend, the plunging neckline does require a certain physique, particularly that the less “well-endowed” can enjoy.
Jazz Age
We’ve already mentioned the 1920s trend that has been cropping up all over catwalks. It gained serious traction in Milan, especially at Gucci (left), where Frida Giannini sent out beaded black-and-gold flapper dresses in graphic Art Deco designs with fringed hemlines. Alberta Ferretti, Versus and Etro also did the catwalk Charleston, with dropped waists, fringed (or split pleat) hemlines, and Deco designs.
Spotted: Tricky Trend
Polka dots and spots have been sending everyone dotty with delight. But this is not always the easiest print to wear. Many people associate polka dots with a younger generation, but there’s no reason why women of all ages can’t tap into the trend. For the younger set, you can get away with all most anything here—sheer spot shirts and tops are especially sweet, as are pretty dresses and shirts. Wear them top to toe if you choose, as at Marc Jacobs (autumn/winter 2011, left)—why not? For those in their 30s and 40s, however, a little frivolity can still be enjoyed here. Choose one great piece—a dress, top, skirt, or even just a scarf—and wear it with other block-colour pieces for maximum impact. Choose body-flattering (to you) shapes, perhaps with more structure or tailoring. For example, a sexy polka dot blouse worn with a pencil skirt or trousers and killer heels will hit the spot—pardon the pun.