The international spring/summer 2012 shows came to a close in Paris last week. But not before a final feminine flourish. The ladylike trend that has been around for a few seasons seemed to have something of a renaissance this season, or perhaps it was a last hurrah. There were two particular trends in which this feeling revelled…
Feminine fabrics
Lace, that most feminine of fabrics, was in abundance in the City of Light. Nowhere more so than at Valentino (left), where exit after exit seemed to use its most delicate incarnations in everything from strapless maxidresses, Victorian-style gowns or pretty tea dresses. Sydney’s Collette Dinnigan showed a particularly lace-heavy collection in private showings. Alexander McQueen’s take on lace was of a slightly tougher ilk, but no less beautiful with glossy black leather worked into lace pieces. Carven used lace in small quantities to add sheer panels to its tunic dresses.
On a few occasions, that other super-feminine summer fabric, broderie anglaise, made an appearance, in its crispest white. Chloé used a dot broderie in dropped-waist dresses. Marc Jacobs gave the fabric a good innings at Louis Vuitton (left), with delicate dresses in white, peach and powder blue (or all together in one instance).
1950s
The other side of the ladylike trend manifested in a nod to the 1950s (and early 60s in some instances) and the couture techniques of that era. There were some quite literal translations of the trend, particularly at Rochas (left), where full-skirted sequinned dresses were topped with cat-eye sunglasses and headscarves. Often, however, it was in the simpler daywear, such as at Christian Dior, Vuitton and Rochas again, where simple duchesse silk coats topped off knee-length skirts, boxy jackets featured, sometimes in tweeds or check prints; cigarette pants were in abundance; shirts and blouses were buttoned up and proportions were elegant.
Plays on proportions and volume were also evident in a number of collections, a nod to the couture techniques of the 1950s and ’60s by the likes of Cristobal Balenciaga. Balenciaga, indeed, was one of the labels that embraced this approach, with Nicolas Ghesquière creating very urban, modern pieces with these techniques. Jackets and dresses had stiffness and volume, with shapes often sitting away from the body. Also at Céline, where dropped, full sleeves were apparent on otherwise utilitarian jackets, and at Dries Van Noten, dresses had dropped waists, ruffled details and elegant three-quarter sleeves.
Ocean girls
There was a mini moment for all things oceanic in land-bound Paris. Karl Lagerfeld (Chanel, left) presented an underwater world, where ruffles took on the look of sea sponges and floaty feathers resembled sea anemones. The colours were those of the interior of a seashell, which was also the case at Alexander McQueen, where Burton’s empire line dresses bobbed liked jellyfish, and there was the gold of buried treasure.
Stella McCartney’s sporty collection included what looked like embroidered waves undulating along lapels and cutting into dresses and tops. Givenchy (left) had the final word in sea-chic: Ricardo Tisci’s silvery sequinned dresses and separates took on the finish and sometimes even the shape of shimmering fish, and his sharktooth necklaces will have you telling survivor stories in no time.
Lattice lovelies
Yves Saint Laurent’s caged booties started a trend towards latticework shoes some seasons ago, which is still kicking on (ahem). Tom Ford has since done knee-high mesh boots (in the sexed-up way only he can), while Pierre Hardy added latticework panels to heels. This criss-cross pattern is super sexy, and while it also appears in flats on occasion, it’s at its best when featured on heels or booties. Jimmy Choo’s pointed pumps in black latticework will pair perfectly with an LBD or even boyfriend jeans rolled up to reveal something sexy at the end of your ankles. Christian Louboutin’s mesh designs are also winners, as are Burak Uyan’s beauties. Closer to home (and at $269 a little more affordable than these luxe brands), Magdalena Velevska (left) debuted her latticework booties at RAFW in May, now in store at Sydney’s The Corner Shop. (For full stockist list, call 02 9517 3304.)
