In all my work, either as a makeup artist, when I am conducting training schools, or commentating on beauty looks and techniques, I cannot stress enough the importance on illuminated skin. To me it gives the ‘real’ factor to good makeup, whereas matte can look to ‘made up’ as your skin freshly moisturised is not matte… there is a glow! Shine Vs. Sheen though — there is a fine line!
By Michael Brown
Let me take you through some key steps to not make the mistake of over illuminating your face.
I think most women are embracing the use of a primer and/or a highlighter in their makeup routine, but are you using the right one for your skin? Some can actually make your skin look worse.
It’s important to think of your primer just the same as skincare, there are some best suited for oily skins and some for dry.
No one likes looking shiny and these days, powder is not always the best option, especially in Australia as we all tend to be a little dehydrated!
Adding light to the face is such a hot trend at the moment, especially as the ‘barely there’ makeup look has made its mark. However, adding too much light can create shine rather than a sheen, so it is always best to test out your product for long wear at an occasion where it may not matter if shine occurs, and then you will know what to expect for a big event.
Textures are the most important factor when making sure the right effect lasts the night — same as in skincare.
An oily skin wouldn’t use an oil based, rich cream moisturiser, just as a dry skin wouldn’t use a hydrating fluid, it would just not be enough.
Think about your skin and what it needs in terms of texture — does it need oil control because it has to much shine, or does it need to add shine to make it look like it is well hydrated?
MB PRO TIP – Always test your makeup by taking a picture, with a flash if possible. This will always tell the truth if there is too much reflection (shine) on the skin. If it is too dry looking, this will come up lighter in colour or just dull.
If you are prone to shining up or have large pores, you need to really smooth out the skin and create a shield almost between skin and foundation. Otherwise foundation can get into the pores, clogging, making more oil then appear on the surface of the skin.
The texture should not be thick, oily, or too fluid like, but very fine, silicon style or feeling very velvety once applied to the skin.
All of the above will help an oily skin have a longer lasting shine free finish, then whatever does happen to come to the surface can always be dabbed away with a pressed powder, but only when needed and not when applying the makeup originally, to stop a cakey effect.
My favorite priming product for large pores or a general oily prone skin is the Sisley Instant Perfect Primer (RRP $80.00. Available exclusively from selected David Jones stores nationallty or ph: 1300 780 800)!
Great in the T-zone area and then spread through any oily areas as it is such a smoothing product and amazing on pores.
Just because you are shiny, doesn’t mean don’t add highlighter, but just make sure you correct/control the shine concerns first, otherwise you may have just too much shine going on – it’s all about balance.
If adding highlighter on a shiny prone skin, only add it on the outer areas of the face, like the cheekbones area and maybe the Cupid’s bow for a better pout, but avoid the central areas of the face — better to be safe than shiny!
Even if a skin I am working on isn’t really that shiny, but they get a slight T-zone shine, I generally use this sort of primer like the Sisley as a precaution.
Just a little in the T-zone, under foundation, as you just don’t want an unfortunate shine mishap. The smoother looking the centre of the face is, the more elegance and polished your overall makeup appearance will be.
Keep all highlights subtle, but as if they are built into your face naturally, not looking like they have been applied over foundation (which they have), they need to melt and bond into your skin.
Dryer skins can also use smoothing primers like the ones I have mentioned, but still need some form of nourishment, either from a richer, moisturising primer on the outer areas of the skin to give suppleness, or your skincare products. I occasionally mix my highlighter product in with my foundation or even moisturiser as a base for a really dry skin as the entire goal is to bring life back to what can be a flakey, tight, dull skin.
Life = light!
Illuminating and light reflecting the entire face is great – just not too much, otherwise when the flash goes off it won’t be able to focus on any features. Add extra highlight to the high points of the face like cheekbones, brow bones, through the centre of the face and slightly above brows, as needed.
Nothing worse than a dry skin looking dryer because of foundation.
For dry/dehydrated skins, or even oily skin that just want a little light used as a spot treatment, I love using the Fluid Sheer range from Giorgio Armani! There are so many shades to choose from, for all skin tones and effects, but subtle enough to not ‘over shine’ your skin.
As mentioned they are great mixed into foundation, worn alone or used as a spot highlight. The very fine texture means less ‘shine’ and more ‘sheen’ = WIN! There are several shades from pearl, opal, peach etc to get the perfect amount of highlight to your skin.
Sometimes using too much silver base highlighters create WAY too much shine, especially in photography, so the above being in several shades is perfect to try.
Mix Fluid Sheer with its perfect partner Luminous Silk Foundation and your dehydrated/dry skin will be gone, looking so hydrated and illuminated it will be like a star in the sky!
Now that sounds good to me…
Giorgio Armani Fluid Sheer RRP $86
Luminous Silk Foundation RRP $90
Stockists 1300 651 991, available David Jones and Myer
By Michael Brown
Twitter: @mbrown_beauty
Facebook.com/michaelbrownbeauty
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