Christopher Kane has been added to the pool of candidates to assume the role of creative director at Dior and Naomi Campbell closed the Roberto Cavalli Autumn/Winter 2012-13 show in Milan, although not everyone was impressed.
The young British designer is the latest name to join the frame to replace John Galliano as the head of the French fashion house after Galliano was sacked last year for anti-Semitic behaviour.
Respected fashion writer Suzy Menkes wrote in the International Herald Tribune, “The collaboration between Donatella Versace and Christopher Kane with his sister Tammy is a sweet reminder of the Gianni Versace-Donatella years. But what if – as the rumour mill claims – Mr Kane has been put up for the Dior job? There will be yet another round of musical chairs.”
Other designers reported to be in the running for the prestigious job include Raf Simons and Stefano Pilati while Marc Jacobs has seemingly ruled himself out.
However, Suzy doesn’t think this uncertainty is good for anyone involved.
She said, “Caught in this maelstrom are the designers. By their nature artistic and fragile people, they see themselves treated like commodities, bought and dispensed with as the corporate house pleases… Cut off from reality as Mr Galliano was and many others still are, in the world of first-class travel and the chauffer at the door, they find themselves enmeshed in a web of their own making.”
Meanwhile, Christopher Kane showcased his latest Versus for Versace collection at Milan Fashion Week. Kane was inspired by both the north London area of Camden and Donatella Versace herself.
He said, “It’s very Camden Cyberdog, a very rebellious girl – very Donatella.
The supermodel – who is close friends with the designer – took to the catwalk in a maroon sequin halter gown from the collection which featured Cavalli staples including lots of leather and fur.
However, not everyone was impressed with Naomi’s catwalk return with fashion news website WWD commenting, “From the bubble gum opening to the finale that fizzled – Naomi Campbell, the caboose on a train with no steam – Roberto Cavalli’s fall collection had the mystifying feeling of a REM-cycle dream.”
Other pieces in the collection included maxi fur ballgown skirts with sequin adorned tops and feathered baseball caps, elbow-length gloves and halter dresses with sequins.
Describing his latest collection as “an Eden of femininity” Roberto kicked off the show by leading his Alsatian dog Lupo around the runway.
Giorgio Armani also showcased his latest designs on the final day of Milan Fashion Week yesterday with a “tailored” collection of long jackets, slim pants and shorts.