MAC, the maestros of make-up, have just launched their seasonal colour story. A brilliant collaboration with three celebrated American artists: painter Richard Phillips, photographer Marilyn Minter and illustrator Maira Kalman. We invited ourselves for a preview and a How-To lesson in perfecting this season’s smokey eye (and it’s not all black and grey!); flirted with new lip colours and learned how to fake (until we make) a flawless complexion.
Our tour guide was none other than Nicole Thompson, Senior Artist for MAC, who had only just completed the Jayson Brunsdon store opening show the night before. I turned up fresh faced and sans even a tinted moisturiser to their Paddington boutique, and here I share my step by step application techniques and Nicole’s expert tips. For the sake of time, I asked Nicole to focus on the holy grail of beauty- the perfect smokey eye.
RESCU: So, I’m loving the grown up glamour MAC created for Alex Perry at RSFF, can we achieve the same look using the new season colour palettes?
Nicole Thompson for MAC: Yes, it’s all in the preparation and we are going to create a bronze smokey eye with chocolates and taupes from the Richard Phillips palette. The Eye Shadow quad is called Notoriety.
RESCU: Great wearable and flattering colours that every girl needs.
Step 1:
Prep the eyelids. This Nicole assures me is the first and most important rule to achieving the modern and clean smokey eye. Prep the lids with cream eye shadow in Margrites (a very subtle taupe/ nude). Apply using a soft blender brush.
Step 2:
Apply eyeliner in the roots first. This is Nicole’s personal technique and she does this even before adding any eye shadow to the lid. She assures me that this is the backstage tip that gives longevity and depth.
Step 3: Apply the Skin tone 2 (a dirty gold frost) to the lid only.
Step 4: With eyes open, using fluffy blender brush, apply the Notoriety (dirty brown with gold pearl) into the creases. Leaving eyes open allow for control and application in the right spot.
Step 5: Use the ‘Off the Page (orange) eye shadow’ from the Marilyn Minter collection to warm up the eyes. The pop throws a ray of sunshine that is imperceptible but gorgeous and very modern.
Step 6: Apply pigment in Cocomotion (a dirty gold bronze with rose pearl) to bring some light and make eyes jump out. Apply to centre of lid and for evening, make this stronger. For day, you can skip this step altogether.
Step 7: For smokey eyes, repeat what is on the lids underneath the lashes. This creates balance and a professional finished look. (ie: apply eyeliner underneath lash line, apply Skin Tone 2 and blend some Notoriety in the outer corners)
Step 8: Use a bronzer to warm up the complexion. Nicole used the fanbrush with MAC Mineral Powder in Deep Dark to apply to my temples, down my nose and even along my cheekbones. Instantly it balanced out the strong eyes and made me look healthy and fresh.
Step 9: Curl your lashes and apply volumising mascara. Nicole taught me to coat the top and bottom of the top lashes (go under and curl up, then from above near the roots coat out) to get an all over coating of MAC Zoom mascara. Gently apply mascara to bottom lashes. Nicole also took an angle brush, dipped it into the mascara excess and pressed mascara into the roots of my lashes to create a perfect and intense black line.
Step 10: Apply blush ( I loved the Perfect Cheek, a dirty pale pink) highlighter and a nude gloss.
The look can take you less than 5-10 minutes once you have your brushes and technique sorted. However I wanted to amp it up and asked Nicole to apply the hot new season lashes just launched by Christina Smith. I am loving the clear film at the base of the lashes and the fact that they are made from human hair. They produce an amazing soft, feathery result that made me look pretty not stupid. Nicole’s tip is to cut lashes in half for easier application at home and always use DUO glue. Once glue is on the base of the lash, allow to dry for 30 seconds and then apply. Have since tried this tip at home and found it made my fake lash application 99.99% fool proof!
Nicole Thompson’s Tips:
1. Soft brushes are key to a soft finish and modern smokey eye. No hard angle brushes if you don’t want a hard finish.
2. A light base colour behind lashes makes lashes pop. Don’t go too dark on the lid if you want to show off long full lashes.
3. Strong colours can be scary so try using them instead to add a wash of colour. By modifying your technique and using softer brushes, you can use many more colours in your make-up.
4. A Cream Highlighter (Pearl) is the backstage secret for dewy finish and achieving a glow. Try it on cheekbones and around the eyes.
5. This season, try one of the strong bright lips. Coral, Red and Fuchsia are huge, but can be worn as a stain instead of a block of colour on the lips. Nicole’s favourite is Lady Danger (an orange Red).
Want professional make-up lessons?
You can book a one-on-one make up lesson with a make-up Artist from MAC at either of their two MAC Pro stores: Oxford Street, Sydney (02) 9360 8581 or Chapel Street, Melbourne (03) 9825 0100.
The 1.5 hour lesson is $160 and is completely redeemable with products purchased on the day. We recommended that you do this twice a year to update your look and also learn how to use brushes and colours properly. It’s a very fun thing to do with your mum or best friend.
After my make-up lesson; sporting the modern smokey eye.
