If you’ve got a case of complexion affection, ask yourself, are you killing your skin with cleanliness?
Overzealous exfoliation is one of the biggest mistakes we make when trying to give our skin a little extra TLC. I’m all for pouring adoration on the epidermis, but by over-cleansing you can be doing more harm than good says Emma Bangay.
“Exfoliation is a really important step for just about everyone, especially as you age,” Emma Hobson of the Dermal Institute explains. “It assists with the cleansing process by dislodging trapped dirt, debris and blocked oils (blackheads) for easy removal. It also assists the skin in its natural shedding and skin renewal process, ensuring the skin is smooth, even and protected.”
But in a case of Everyday Epidermal Errors, women everywhere are over-exfoliating and actually breaking down the skin’s natural protective barrier unwittingly. This can exacerbate oiliness, congestion, sensitivity and dehydration.
The key is to find the exfoliation that is right for you: Chemical or Manual. Here I look at the Pro’s and Cons of both so that you can set your skin up for a love match for life.
The Case for Chemical Exfoliation:
A chemical exfoliant is one that ‘sits’ on the skin surface and works without any assistance. Examples of chemical exfoliants include Hydroxy Acids, Enzymes, Retinol, Phytic acid and Acid Free Smoothing Agents. “They are ideal for those with signs of ageing, skin sensitivity, dry, flaky skin and people wanting ‘active’ exfoliants,” explains Emma.
Not being a scrub they will not cause ‘friction’ on the skin surface therefore they are considered (generally) to be less sensitising, she adds. “There are also more options available as to which is the best for various skin conditions,” she argues, so this may be a more gentle, bespoke option.
The Do’s of Chemical Exfoliation:
- Do exfoliate 2-3 times per week. This is more than sufficient, says Emma
- Do keep clear of the eyelids and lips – this is a no-go zone fore exfoliants.
- Do be clear on ingredients if you are pregnant. Salicylic Acid (BHA) or Retinol are best avoided during this time.
The Case for Manual Exfoliation:
Manual exfoliation can benefit the skin in many ways, says Marie Jenkins, founder of Kosmea Skincare, “and it can be a lot less harsh on the skin than some of the more active chemical exfoliants.” Chemical exfoliants may be too strong for some skin types, resulting in reactions such as redness, tingling, or stinging, she says. The user, allowing for different pressures for different skin types, she assures, can better control manual exfoliation. “Manually exfoliating is also a much quicker routine as products do not need to be left on the skin for a number of minutes. Perfect for people on the go!
Look for whole organic chamomile flowers and ground organic rosehips. “The chamomile gently removes dead skin cells, and has the additional benefit of being soothing and calming – especially on sensitive skin. The rosehips are both an exfoliator and also a mild and gentle fruit acid exfoliator.”
The Do’s of Manual Exfoliation:
- Do only exfoliate 2-3 times a week
- Do rest your skin if needed. If it is feeling sensitized due to hormones or weather, skip an exfoliation as this can cause added flakiness and fragility of skin.
- Do make sure that you moisturize and use sun protection when going out in the sun – especially if you are an avid-exfoliator.
Whichever you choose for you, the message is clear, when it comes to getting a cleaner complexion, don’t be demonstrative. Read the signs when it comes to exfoliation and if your skin needs a simple air-kiss, don’t suffocate it with a beauty bear hug!
Image credit: Mario Testino Towel Series @mariotestino
