Recognised globally as the perfume expert’s expert, Michael Edwards’ Fragrances of the World guide book has become the ‘Fragrance Bible’ of modern perfume. Rescu. chats to the fragrance maestro about the inspiration for the David Jones Flower Show 2012 – Flueressence: A Celebration of Fragrance, as well as the perfumes that changed the world.
RESCU: What was your vision for Fleuresence and how did your involvement come about?
Michael Edwards: Each year, the David Jones team searches for a theme to anchor their spring flower extravaganza. This year, my Fragrance Wheel provided the inspiration and the theme for Fleuressence 2012.
RESCU: How do women come to find and fall in love with a new fragrance?
Michael Edwards: For most women, it poses a problem. Allure magazine summed it up when they wrote: “Finding the right fragrance is almost as hard as finding the right man.” There is an easy solution: fragrances, like wines, are grouped into families. Chardonnays, Sauvignon Blancs, Rieslings, and Chenin Blancs, for example, are four different families or kinds of white wine. Likewise, Oriental fragrances may be grouped into Floral Orientals, Soft Orientals, true Orientals and Woody Orientals. Each fragrance family will have a characteristic scent, a different personality. Instinctively, one will prefer fragrances from some families and dislike perfumes from others.
David Jones have taken the concept of the Fragrance Wheel and created window displays that are inspired by and representative of each of the 14 fragrance families. Each window features a single fragrance that is one of many fragrances within its category. The flagship store is equipped with copies of FRAGRANCES OF THE WORLD 2012, my guide to more than 8,000 fragrances. Tell the consultants the three or four fragrances you love, and they’ll guide you through the maze of perfumes.
RESCU: Do you have favourite floral combinations in women’s fragrance?
Michael Edwards: Perfume is liquid emotion. For me, Yves Saint Laurent’s Y, with its blend of jasmine, green notes and iris, holds special memories. My wife was wearing it when I first met her, forty years ago.
RESCU: What are the most popular women’s fragrance trends this year?
Michael Edwards: A return to classic themes, with new textures (Balenciaga’s FLORABOTANICA and Chanel’s COCO NOIR) and innovation gourmand touches (PRADA CANDY and LA VIE EST BELLE).
RESCU: What are the most important fragrances moments in history?
Michael Edwards: How do I sum up 120 years of magic, from 1889 (JICKY) to Coco Noir (2012)?
Here are a few highlights:
1921 CHANEL No 5 – The first significant designer fragrance
1925 SHALIMAR – Still revered as the greatest Oriental ever created
1966 EAU SAUVAGE – Its freshness and tenacity transformed Eaux de Cologne
1977 OPIUM – Perfumery’s first blockbuster
1981 GIORGIO – Its success persuaded the great stores to take perfumery seriously
1992 ANGEL – The pioneer gourmand fragrance
1994 ck ONE – Its impact changed perfumery
