Nicola Formichetti referenced Thierry Mugler’s ‘Insects’ collection at the Mugler presentation at Paris Fashion Week and Alber Elbaz sees modern clothing as ‘awful and ugly’ but says he strives for beauty and simplicity in his designs.
The creative director of the brand took inspiration from the label’s founder Thierry’s 1997 Insects collection in the catwalk show which saw the models emerge from backstage first in small groups with furry hats and wings, and white fringed dresses and then as a hoard to keep in with the insect theme.
According to the show notes, “With the models coming out two by two or just three and then a hoard of them, it was just as though we had uncovered a Mugler nest and these were the queen ants running the show – with their protective and pronounced silhouettes.”
Meanwhile, all eyes are on Dior as acting head of design Bill Gaytten shows his latest collection at the Rodin Museum.
Bill has chosen classic designs rather than attempting to mimic the style of disgraced former designer John Galliano but he claims the need to “move on” was dictated by fashion trends rather than John’s sacking.
He told Britain’s Daily Telegraph newspaper, “We would have had to move on whatever happened.
“Fashion has changed so much in the past year. Suddenly classics are what look new.”
The Lanvin chief – who is renowned for his love of simple styling – believes many outfits for the 21st century woman are too hard to wear, and wants to think of modernity as “beautiful, emotional and comfortable”.
He said, “Every time I think about modern, I always think about something awful and ugly, and all I am trying to do is think that modern can be beautiful. Modernity is not black leather, and modernity is not 17 zippers and modernity is not rock ‘n’ roll or heavy metal.
“Modernity for me is beautiful and emotional and comfortable and timeless. I mean, to see a woman sitting on 50 metres of tulle, I am not sure it’s modern.”
The Israeli designer reveals he wants his clothes to be worn by women who have a busy lifestyle and need function over fashion.
He told WWD, “I think that I was very alert to women, and I am seeing more and more that women are changing. Their lifestyle is becoming more and more complex and more and more difficult on a daily basis.
“So I was trying always to simplify their life. For instance, dresses in the first collection, a lot of people said they were very romantic, I didn’t see the romantic side of the dresses; I saw the easiness, the simplicity.”
