By Sally Hunwick
You’re not one to throw a hissy fit, but sometimes your skin does. Here’s how to get your skin back to calm.
There are a lot of us who point the finger at our faces and say “sensitive, annoying, temperamental”. But there are actually very few of us who have truly sensitive skin – the type of skin that turns red and stinging on contact with products, or worse, even good ol’ tap water. For most of us, our sensitivity is a case of overindulgence.
Too many products, too harsh ingredients, too much scrubbing… it can all lead to a stressed-out complexion that doesn’t want to play ball. Here are some tips to get skin back to Zen.
Know the problem
You can’t fix your girlfriend’s boyfriend problems unless you know all the details. Same goes for your skin. If you’re breaking out in a rash or you have red, burning skin that’s not normally there, it may be that you’re using products that are too strong for you skin type.
Skin Detox
To figure out what’s causing the complexion angst, go on a skin detox. Stop using acne products (particularly those with benzoyl peroxide and glycolic acid), anti-ageing potions (they often have things like retinol and AHAs), and anything that is heavily fragranced.
During the detox, switch to a mild fragrance-free cleanser, use a washcloth instead of an exfoliant (Dermalogica Sponge Cloth is great for cleansing even very sensitive skin) and only moisturise with a gentle fragrance-free moisturiser. After a couple of weeks or so, when your skin has calmed down, you can slowly start to re-introduce the products in your normal routine.
Don’t just launch right back into your ingredient-filled world though. Start by patch-testing one product at a time for a couple of days on your neck or jaw to see if any irritation occurs. If you stay red-free, then go ahead and use the product. But go easy. Give skin a chance to get used to the ingredients by starting with two to four days a week, then, if necessary, slowly build up to daily use.
Less is more
A lot of us think that if something is good, then more of it is better. But that’s usually not the case. If a product’s directions say to add a pea-sized amount for the entire face, use a pea sized amount.
Doubling the recommended dose of retinols or acids or even peptides will at best just waste product – at worst, it will irritate your skin and leave you red faced. Literally.
Back to calm
Cleanse: A cleanser with a cocktail of anti-ageing acids or acne fighting salicylic can really help. But if you suffer from irritation, it may be best to switch to a gentler version that won’t leave skin feeling stripped.
A cream cleanser is ideal for drier skin types (you may want to skip the rinse all together and just tissue off), while a milky cleanser will help keep oilier skin slick-free without stripping its moisture. Try: Cetaphil Gentle Skin Cleanser.
Tone: Toning can be harsh on temperamental skin so it may be wise to skip it. If you can’t resist the fresh feeling that a toner brings, look for alcohol-free, moisturising versions. Try: Ahava Mineral Toning Water.
Protect: Sunscreen is always, always important. But it becomes an absolute must if you’re using acids and retinols in your skin regimen.
Look for SPF with physical blocks, such as zinc oxide and titanium dioxide, which are far less likely to irritate sensitive skin. Try: Dermalogica Sheer Tint Redness Relief SPF 15.
Moisturise: Choose a moisturiser that is fragrance free and has ceramides, which helps repair the skin’s barrier (or acid mantel). Also look for products with hyaluronic acid, which is deeply hydrating. Try: Simple Replenishing Rich Moisturiser.
Reduce redness: Products with ingredients, such as chamomile, brown algae, amino acids and liquorice-derived licochalcone, can help with inflammation and redness, while honey can help soothe. Try: Elemis Daily Redness Relief.
Rescu. Recommends:
We love the magical healing and soothing powers of Rose Hip Oil.
We’ve discovered a super charged version that is enhanced with vitamin E and a nourishing combination of patchouli, lavender and sandalwood essential oils from Australian brand Eleusian. Their Rose Hip oil is the best we’ve tried on sensitive skin and can really restore calm and order.
When to visit the doctor
If skin becomes severely red and inflamed or itchy and scaly, it’s time to see a doctor. Issues such as rosacea, psoriasis and eczema can be treated over the counter, but these problems can worsen over time so it is best to seek medical attention as soon as it becomes a problem. For more severe cases, antibiotics and prescription cortisone cream may be given.
Products:
• Dermalogica The Sponge Cloth, $33.50, 1800 659 118, www.dermalogica.com.au
• Cetaphil Gentle Skin Cleanser, from $7.80, 1800 800 765, www.cetaphil.com.au
• AHAVA Mineral Toning Water, $35 1800 824 282, www.ahava.com.au
• Dermalogica Sheer Tint Redness Relief SPF 15, $77, 1800 659 118, www.dermalogica.com.au
• Simple Replenishing Rich Moisturiser, $11.49, 03 9538 4000, www.simpleskincare.com.au
• Elemis Daily Redness Relief, $129. 1800 802 036, www.elemis.com.au
• Eleusian Rose Hip Regenerative Oil, $31.95 www.eleusian.com.au
