When asked about the concept behind each of these four shows, Brad Ngata said, “For White Sands, it was shipwreck-chic (pictured); Dhini, it was an Indian empress; Gail Sorronda wanted to create an amazing silhouette to reflect the collection and TAFE was a combination of each of the four designers’ ideas: wet, braids, dry and messy.”
RESCU: What is your process for working with a designer from inspiration to show time?
Brad Ngata: “First of all I meet with the designers to get inside their head and discuss the show’s concept, how they want this to translate to hair and also any references they have (be it cultural, fashion, political etc.)
I then take all of this information away with me to come up with the creative procedure and to make sure what we have brainstormed is doable.
In the weeks leading up to RAFW, we then regroup at a hair trial and create / workshop the finished look until everyone is happy. When we have reached this point, we break it down into steps, which I use to educate the backstage team.
On the day, we create a production line of sorts with everyone responsible for their own task / step in the process. I oversee the entire team, working hands on with them, tweaking the look and adding and finishing touches to ensure the shape, texture or finish is right and that there is consistency en masse.”
RESCU: Had you worked with any of these designers previously?
Brad Ngata: “I worked on Dhini and Gail Sorronda’s joint show last year. The Innovators / TAFE guys are new designers each year, so no, but I have done this group show for the past three years (it was where I first worked with Dion Lee) and White Sands was a completely new adventure.”
What was your inspiration for each runway?
Brad Ngata: “Each designer had their own concept, which in turn was interpreted with the hair looks we created.”
RESCU: How well does runway work with reality? Any tips for wearing each of these looks off the runway?
Brad Ngata: “The trends we see on the street each year is often a more practical version of the looks created on the runway.
Braids were huge this RAFW and something we will continue to see as a key trend throughout summer.
For Gail Sorronda and Dhini, while strong statement hair was part of the brief, it was all about creating an amazing texture, level of volume and shape all of which will be on trend for everyday this SS10/11.
As for White Sands, the shipwrecked-sexy hair was totally wearable and something we see on all beach babes, every summer. The sun kissed highlights we added to the models hair were a nod to the balayage look that has been so popular the last two summer seasons.”
LOOK 1: “Sexy wearable” at White Sands
The inspiration for this swimwear collection was shipwrecked meets chic with the resulting look, not too far from Brad Ngata’s signature, sexy-wearable style.
Brad explains, “With the shipwrecked theme of the show, we wanted to make the audience feel lost on a stranded island as well. The hair looks as if the models had been tossed and turned in the ocean with tons of volume and messy texture, we then added blond extensions to make it appear like they had been stuck in the sun for the past five years.”
How to achieve the look
1. Prepare the hair using a double moussing technique; applying mousse, blasting the hair completely dry and repeating
2. Taking random sections of hair, weave around a bent wire clothes hanger
3. Using a thin plate straightener, clamp down on the hair wrapped around the wire hanger, to create an instant tousled, beach hair look
4. Continue this process until the whole head has been completed
5. Release the hair and finger comb the waves being careful not to smooth the hair too much – the final look should be textured and messy
6. Finish with a good misting of hairspray.
LOOK 2: “A mix of wearable looks” at TAFE innovators
Inspiration: Brad says, ‘all four of the designers gave me different references for what they wanted their models to look like – wet, braids, dry and a loose undone texture. So we incorporated each of the components into the hairstyle.
It starts in a classic wet braid on one side and as it moves around the head it slowly becomes undone and dry with a lot of loose, fibrous bits. Two of the designers wanted to incorporate jewellery and headdresses in the hair, so all of the accessories had to work in with this one diverse style.’
LOOK 3: “Dramatic Parisian pose” at Gail Sorronda
Inspiration: “From the creative brief, we discussed a look that would contrast two moods of severe and soft. I wanted a new shape for this runway, one that incorporated these two moods like two stages in time.
Brad says, “I combined a strict, firm braid through the centre with plenty of shine, then framed it with soft, crimped floss-like texture.” The look is dramatic as if straight from a Parisian runway.”
Look 4: The “bouffant is back” at Dhini
A royal crown or a headdress fit for an Empress…” described Brad. “I wanted to contrast the softness of this ‘inflated’ and very beautiful shape with intricate
braiding. The look is worldly and unique, a beautiful statement for Dhini.”
“There’s something really unique about braiding too. It shows off texture and dimension in the hair and can give a look a particular edge. We worked in tiny braids for detail at the base of this statement, billowing shape”.
Images courtesy of L’Oréal Professionnel.
