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Home Substance Science & Innovation

Regenerative Medicine in Aesthetics and Skincare

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Insights from HighTech Medical and IS Clinical from NSS 2024

I spoke to Dr. Charlene DeHaven and Jeannie Devereux PhD, on the advances of regenerative medicine in aesthetics treatments and skincare innovations. Their expertise highlighted the profound potential of regenerative treatments to reframe how we treat skin health and skin ageing.

A Conversation with Jeannie Devereux, PhD

Jeannie Devereux’s journey into regenerative medicine began serendipitously in 2008 when she overheard a conversation about injecting cells around the eyes at a cosmetic conference. Intrigued by the potential, she delved into research and soon introduced regenerative medicine to the cosmetic field. “This era will be equally as exciting as the introduction of penicillin,” she remarked.

The Promise of PRP

Devereux highlighted the power of Platelet-Rich Plasma (PRP) in skin regeneration. She particularly notes the importance of dosage and the method of extraction and centrifugation, noting that not all PRPs are created equal. “You want to start at 10 billion platelets,” she advised, explaining that higher doses of platelets significantly enhance the regeneration process. This high-dose PRP can clear up skin lesions and actinic keratosis, providing not just cosmetic but also health benefits.

Devereux shared her personal experience, revealing that regular PRP treatments using Emcyte, have maintained the luminosity and health of her skin. “I’ve been injecting PRP into my skin since 2008, and it’s not just about chasing youth; it’s about skin health,” she stated. Her skin is flawless with a natural luminosity that is to be seen to be believed.

Integrating PRP into Aesthetic Treatments

PRP can be seamlessly integrated into various aesthetic treatments, from lasers to radiofrequency procedures. Devereux emphasised that PRP should always be injected, not applied topically, to ensure deep tissue regeneration. This approach helps restore natural volume and elasticity by targeting the fat pads, ligaments, tendons, and skeletal muscle.

“The dose is 10 billion platelets. If they’re not doing 10 billion platelets as a minimum, say sorry, I’ll find somewhere that is,” she stressed, underscoring the importance of advocating for high-quality PRP treatments.

Ensuring Effective PRP Treatments

Jeannie Devereux specifically praised the EmCyte technology for its advanced PRP preparation. “The EmCyte PurePRP system provides a high concentration of platelets and mononuclear cells, essential for effective skin regeneration,” she explained. This technology ensures a high yield of viable platelets and growth factors, significantly enhancing the regenerative potential of PRP treatments​​.

For consumers, understanding the intricacies of PRP is crucial. Devereux advised looking for treatments that use more sophisticated kits capable of delivering the necessary high doses of platelets. *”Make sure it’s not just a tube,” she recommended, as weaker preparations may not provide significant regenerative benefits.

PRP treatments typically involve three sessions spaced four weeks apart, followed by a booster session after six months. Complementary treatments such as skin needling, lasers, IPLs, and peels can enhance the results of PRP, as can a good skincare regimen.

“Seeing is believing,”* Devereux stated, noting that patients often become committed to EmCyte PRP treatments after witnessing the significant improvements in skin health and appearance.

Insights from Dr. Charlene DeHaven

Dr. Charlene DeHaven, Clinical Director for Innovative Skincare, brought her extensive experience in anti-aging and regenerative medicine to the NSS. Her work with IsClinical since the launch of the brand, has positioned her at the forefront of skincare innovation for over 20 years.

The Evolution of Regenerative Skincare

Dr. DeHaven discussed the shift from traditional anti-aging approaches to regenerative medicine, which she believes is a more accurate and positive terminology. “We don’t call it anti-aging anymore; we call it regenerative,” she explained. This shift reflects a broader understanding of the multifactorial nature of ageing and the need for comprehensive, evidence-based treatments.

The Role of Advanced Ingredients

Dr. DeHaven highlighted the importance of using high-quality, often expensive and rare ingredients in developing skincare formulations. She described the meticulous process of selecting the best botanicals and scientific compounds, emphasising that “good ingredients are extremely expensive, and the science is expensive.” This dedication to quality and efficacy is what sets innovative brands apart.

She also highlighted the role of extremozymes, a unique class of enzymes derived from plants living in extreme environments. These enzymes protect DNA, the command centre of cells, from environmental stressors. *”Extremozymes can be thought of as bubble wrap for the DNA,”* she said, highlighting their importance in maintaining healthy, youthful skin.

The Future of Regenerative Skincare

Looking ahead, Dr. DeHaven sees a promising future for technologies like growth factors and exosomes. However, she noted the challenges associated with these advancements, such as the difficulty of delivering large molecules like growth factors through the skin barrier. Instead, her company uses copper tripeptide-1, a small, bioidentical molecule with significant regenerative properties and anti-cancer benefits.

“Growth factors help things grow, and to regenerate new skin, you have to have messages that say to the DNA, regenerate new skin, useful skin, functional skin,”* she explained. Despite regulatory and technological challenges, the potential of these ingredients to revolutionise skincare is immense.

Understanding Growth Factors and Exosomes

Dr. DeHaven provided a detailed explanation of the benefits and challenges associated with growth factors and exosomes. Growth factors, though powerful, are large molecules that are difficult to deliver through intact skin. *”Most of the growth factors being sold are the old technology from the 1980s,”* she noted, adding that many of these products contain a mix of growth factors with varying, sometimes unknown, messages.

Exosomes, on the other hand, are simpler structures derived from stem cell research. They are easier to work with and have significant anti-inflammatory properties. *”Exosomes are a lot easier to work with than stem cells because they’re not a living cell,”* Dr. DeHaven explained. These properties make exosomes a promising ingredient for future skincare innovations.

Practical Recommendations for Consumers

Both experts shared their passion for informed consumer choices in skincare and aesthetic treatments. Dr. DeHaven suggested finding a knowledgeable skincare professional who stays updated on the latest scientific developments and regularly having a skin check up to track skin’s progress. “The best thing you can do as a consumer is find a really good skincare professional that you trust,” she advised.

Jeannie Devereux recommended patients seek out clinics that specialise in regenerative medicine and ask detailed questions about the treatments they offer. “It’s about self-advocacy and asking the right questions,” she stressed.

The insights shared by Jeannie Devereux and Dr. Charlene DeHaven at NSS 2024 underscore the transformative potential of regenerative medicine in aesthetics and skincare. From high-dose, next generation PRP treatments to cutting-edge ingredients like extremozymes and growth factors in skincare, these advancements offer exciting new possibilities for maintaining healthy, youthful skin.

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