There comes an age when we choose to grow out of youthful follies such as bikinis and Birkenstocks. But sometimes, the choice is not ours to make. Things like blackheads can linger in our life longer than we’d like, so here are ten top tips from the epidermal experts on what to try – and what to avoid – if you’re dealing with blackheads.
Blackheads – also referred to as open comedones – are enlarged hair follicles that are filled with dead skin, sebum and bacteria that is caused when an overproduction of sebum or oil occurs, usually around puberty, due to hormonal changes, explains Dr Li-Chuen Wong, Consultant dermatologist at Sydney Skin.
“Many believe that blackheads develop because of not adequately washing your face, but this is a myth,” she confirms. “In fact, over scrubbing and cleaning with harsh products will only lead to skin irritation. Overuse of thick occlusive make-up, foundation, and sunscreens may also inflame and aggravate blackheads.”
Ten Steps For Blackhead Treatment:
- Dr Wong suggests only ever washing acne or blackhead-prone skin with a salicylic acid wash to gently exfoliate the skin. “Use a topical retinoic acid preparation at night, and, products containing alpha hydroxy acids.”
- When it comes to texture, “you should look for products that are not too creamy, or rich,” suggests Associate Professor Greg Goodman, Dermatologist, Dermatology Institute of Victoria. “Even without pore-blocking ingredients, oily or excessively moisturizing products will have a detrimental effect on this skin concern.” Professor Goodman adds that any makeup worn during flare-ups should be light. Mineral make-ups are a good compromise as are BB and CC creams designed for acne prone skin.
- Avoid Dimethicone, a silicone-based polymer that is used in colour cosmetics and other skincare products to provide a protective layer over the skin and provide slip in a product. “This ingredient is commonly found in primers as it has the ability to ‘fill in’ wrinkles and create a smooth effect,” explains Sylvie Hutchings, CEO and Founder of SCOUT “However, as it forms a barrier over the skin it has the potential to trap sebum, dirt, sweat and bacteria which in turn can lead to blemishes and blackheads.”
- Keep the skin exfoliated, urges Kimberley Robison, Skin Therapists, Alkaline Spa & Clinic. Key ingredients than can help assist with this include Vitamin A, which encourages cell turnover and polishes skin, Kaolin and Bentonite clay – to absorb excess oil – Witch Hazel and Tea Tree.
- If your blackheads are increasingly visible and hard to manage at home, put your face in the hands of the professionals, suggests Professor Goodman. “Microdermabrasion light peels and extractions are useful in office treatments,” he notes.
- “Don’t wash your face more than twice a day as this may irritate and inflame the skin,” cautions Dr Wong.
- “Do not squeeze them!” urges Kimberley. “Have a facial therapist assist your skin if this is concerning you.” And don’t try and share the love at home, she adds. “Squeezing you or your partner’s skin can lead to a ruptured follicle and spread of bacteria, or worse – scarring!”
- The problem could be above and beyond your face, and actually in your hair. Oil from hair – or even styling residue – can really unsettle and clog the complexion around the hairline so ensure you wash your hair regularly and wear hair pulled back during any sports or exercise. Ensuring pillowcases are gentle to the skin – silk is the perfect choice – is also a smart move.
- “Mineral Powder foundation is my first choice for a blackhead prone skin type, “ says Sylvie. “Minerals allow the skin to breathe, they are soothing, healing, antimicrobial and antibacterial,” she explains, “Just be sure that the mineral foundation you are using is free from skin clogging ingredients such as bismuth oxychloride, talc and kaolin clay.”
- “This is not a dirty skin issue,” assures Professor Goodman, who says more emphasis should be put on the products you apply to skin at the start of the day, rather than how often you clean it at the conclusion. Dermatologists have a term for blackhead breakouts caused by inappropriate skincare called ‘Acne Cosmetica’. Therefor, Professor Goodman highlights the importance of looking for terms that indicate the product is designed for acne prone skin. “Non-acne forming, non-acne genic, non-comedogenic, oil free, ‘won’t clog pores’ are but a few of the terms used,” he explains.
