Like everything in beauty, trends come and go, but the winged eyeliner has always been present in one way or another…
From the classic, Hollywood wing to the now modern and edgy thicker winged liner, this technique can make or break your look and needs to be thought about before applying.
A winged eyeliner purpose is to elongate and lift the eye, especially amazing for the naturally downturned eye, as it needs to pull upwards at the outer corner.
Using any type of eyeliner or ‘deeper’ shade in the outer corner will recede away any puffiness in the area or excess skin – it always goes back to the rules of contouring…
Highlight = Bringing an area forward
Shade = Pushing back an area
In saying this, a lot of women apply a liquid liner in a sharp line on the top lash line and think it will automatically open their eyes. Eyeliner does just that; it lines the natural shape of your eye. The only way to change the shape of your eye or make it bigger is with shade…
Winged eyeliner is a great way to start if you want a more open, and elongated eye shape, but if you naturally have a heavy lid, or puffiness in the socket area of the eye, eyeliner worn alone cannot change that.
Often if you wear a liquid or winged eyeliner alone, leaving the socket area bare can emphasize the fact you may have some puffiness in that area – this area is a problem for most and in 99% of cases, needs some shading, even in a very neutral tone, can help lift this concern.
Having no shading in the socket area leaves it light in colour, coming forward, which could result in a heavier looking eyelid… Shading in the area recedes which then gives a lift to the eye.
An older, more traditional style technique of liquid eyeliner was that the liner was quite visible and thick from the inner as well as the outer corner of the eye…
Now, eye shadow shading is such a trend… Woman are spending more time on applying the smokey eye technique, especially in neutral or bronze shades, so then applying liquid eyeliner in the older style covers half of your shadow application, plus it makes the area darker or just too ‘placed’ on the eye.
MB PRO TIP: Eye makeup should be applied in an edgy, almost roughed up manner to look more natural. You can apply the darkest look, but if all the edges are not too perfectly placed like a painting, it can actually make the look more realistic and lived in, which is such a big trend. Look as though your makeup is coming from within, not placed perfectly, or sitting on top of the area it is applied.
A great technique to suit the modern woman is to only apply the winged eyeliner, in the very outer corner of the eye only, not covering too much of the inner eye area to avoid looking too styled or placed.
Traditional style application vs new, modern style application (pictured above)
Whatever wing you decide it is important to know your eye shape before starting your application…
The more deepest your eye is, the harder it will be to apply your winged eyeliner.
This is because your socket bone is more forward and therefore you run the risk of the line having a lower dip once the eye is open after application and/or, there could be a change in excess skin in the outer area of the eye when open, compared to the more forward shaped eye such as Angelina above.
MB PRO TIP: ALWAYS start your application when your eyes are open – this will give you the shape and position to how your eye will be all day – unless you walk around with your eyes closed, I think not… Measuring where your winged liner will start and finish is vital for success.
Just like you measure your eyebrows and know where the brow finishes is a very similar winged angle for your liner…
- Start point of the Brow
- Finish point og the brow AND same angle for your winged liner
- Start of Peak point of your brow is end of the Iris, Peak end is the outer point of your eye
The number 2 angle can be easily found by placing your eye pencil from end of the nose, diagonally upwards to outer end of eye and then to finish point of where your brow should be.
This angle is your perfect winged shape…
Applying a winged liner higher up than this point will give a more extreme lift (could be applied for downturned eyes or very mature eyes) and going any lower will elongate your eye more, pulling them outwards, only ok for closed set eyes.
Once finding your angle, one great tip if you are a beginner and want that perfect wing, apply sticky tape on the the #2 line above so that when you apply the line, you will get a perfect line with no smudges as it will go on the tape.
Also another fave tool of mine is Shadow Shields!
This shield can be applied by it’s adhesive under the eye and for a winged eyeliner application, it can be moved more upwards to the outer corner of the eye to get as close as your correct angle as possible…
Beauty is, it not only is the perfect guide for a winged liner, but it also is like a little cup under your eye, catching any eye shadow fall out also…
I usually only apply eye shadow in a dabbing application which reduces fall out, but for anyone using metallic or very dark shadows and want to guarantee no fall out, this is a great tool to try!
Michael Brown’s Winged Eyeliner Tutorial:
- Using a pencil, measure your perfect outer eye ‘winged’ liner angle from placing pencil from outer nose, diagonally upwards to outer eye
- Always start your winged liner when eyes are open to make sure it is in the position you want it in… If applied closed, once eye opens it may move in an unwanted shape
- Trace or dot start and finish points of wing… (Can use a eye pencil as a stencil first if needed)
- Start applying winged eyeliner, from outer to inner of eye – Thinnest point of brush or eyeliner applicator should be on highest point on angle
- Once base line is applied, keep applying/layering liner until your desired shape is in place… Either keeping it thin and traditional or fattening up outer edge.
- Apply where needed on upper lash line, joining wing to lash line area… My tip is to keep the wing a feature and applying little to no liner the further in you go to on the eye
- The more outer puffiness you have the thicker the line will need to be to recede this away and/or shading applied in the socket area.
I would always apply even just a little shading in the socket and on top and lower lash lines so the eye still has a chance to open by using a smokey technique…
A winged liner is such a feature that it doesn’t need a dark eye to go with it, otherwise it will become too blended and not noticeable, but shading in the socket can be a anti-ageing technique to lift the eye when wearing your winged liner.
My fave liquid liner to create a perfect wing is the Benefit ‘They’re Real, Push Up Liner’ (RRP $35). The angled tip is perfect to creating the perfect lifting wing and does the work for you once you have the perfect placement measured. It definitely helps, ‘push up’ when applying the thinner part of the tip on the higher point of the liner shape, creating that perfect angle. When needed, I sometimes use a very ultra fine brush to create or use as the join from winged area to moving across the lash line.
When in doubt ladies, you can always use a kohl pencil in a winged shape and smudge or an edgier feel, or use some shadow in the same way!
Have a ‘Wing’ of a weekend!
