With the interwoven worlds of beauty and science hurtling forward at such a pace, it can be hard to keep up with the latest ways to care for our skin. Rescu. spoke to Laurence Dryer, Chief Scientist and Head of Product Development at Obagi, to uncover his expert insights into the world of cutting edge anti-aging technology and how we can take advantage of the latest innovations to look more beautiful than ever.
RESCU: What would you say is the key difference in Obagi skincare products vs other cosmeceuticals in the Australian market?
Laurence Dryer: Obagi is only sold in physician’s offices and is characterised by the safety and efficacy of its systems, the strength of its clinical trials, and the transformational nature of its products.
We are THE clinical company. Our uniqueness lies in our complete, prescription-strength systems such as Nu-Derm®, Obagi C-Rx® or CLENZIderm MD™, but we also offer scientifically supported solutions that do not require prescriptions. The Obagi patient has a close relationship with her physician and is committed to a regimen that ensures maximum efficacy. Through Obagi she is able to address all her signs of ageing in the most complete, efficacious manner. Our products best serve patients with real concerns, a need for correction, and a high commitment level.
Other Australian cosmeceuticals typically address very mild anti-ageing or therapeutic issues, with little truly interventional and transformational, and without complete systems that address all signs of ageing. Most of these brands focus on prevention only and rely on various fashionable ingredients to convey novelty, with little-to-no clinical support. Australian brands are also famously fond of “Natural” ingredients. While there is nothing wrong with that avenue, we are a serious company and we take care of serious problems, relying on clinical data and hard facts instead of poorly understood ingredients. For us, “the proof is in the pudding”, as we say in the US: if the Doctor can’t see it and grade it as a significant improvement, it’s not real.
RESCU: What are the key areas of accelerated ageing for women, particularly in the Southern Hemisphere?
Laurence Dryer: Photodamage is the leading cause of ageing, and this is particularly true in the Southern hemisphere. There are simply more folks outdoors, and even in areas where photoprotection awareness is high we still see early ageing on women’s faces. This manifests itself with Hyperpigmentation, lines & wrinkles, and later on, laxity. We find that women between the ages of 25 and 45 everywhere express the most concern about discolouration and uneven skin tone, even more than about wrinkles. After the age of 45, laxity can become an issue in addition to skin tone and discolouration. We address all of these issues with the Obagi systems.
RESCU: In your research, which key ingredients are essential to prevent future ageing? To treat existing damage?
Laurence Dryer: From a prevention perspective, the environment is the enemy. Ingredients that protect against UV rays as well as oxidation and inflammation abound, but only a few are considered gold standards because of years of published safety and efficacy testing. A strong sunscreen (SPF30 minimum) is your first weapon against future ageing. Sunscreen ingredients are pretty regulated so there is no mystery there. Then, increase your protection from sun damage with topical anti-oxidants such as Vitamin C featured in the Obagi Professional-C serums. When it’s time for repair, trust gold standard prescription ingredients such as those featured in conjunction with Obagi Nu-Derm® and Obagi C-Rx®. And as a final recommendation for both prevention and repair, never go without a moisturiser, such as Obagi Hydrate and Hydrate Luxe (launching in Australia later this year). Both these contain Hydromanil, a special ingredient that keeps on distributing water within the skin for 8 hours. Good water balance and healthy skin barrier function go a long way towards ageless looking skin.
RESCU: A famous part of the Obagi regime requires prescription retinoids. Can you tell us more about this ingredient and the anti-ageing benefits?
Laurence Dryer: All retinoids are wonderful anti-ageing ingredients. They can be prescription treatments, such as those designed to be used in combination with Nu-Derm, or non-prescription, such as retinol, featured in Obagi 360 (launching in Australia later this year). The prescription form of Vitamin A is a stimulator of epidermal renewal, but also an agent of dermal change and restructuring. In the epidermis, it stimulates cellular turnover to help with skin smoothing, and in the dermis it supports restructuring and scaffolding via collagen stimulation and preservation. This results in smoother and softer skin but also skin with better elasticity and strength. It also has some wonderful brightening properties, and when used as part of Nu-Derm, and is less likely to result in peeling or irritation. It really is a multi-tasking compound that has the advantage of being well understood in terms of safety as well as efficacy. It is today’s gold standard for medical-grade rejuvenation, and that is why we use it. It is important to speak to your Cosmetic Practitioner regarding this product, as with all prescription ingredients.
RESCU: Each year, the world is presented with new buzzwords in anti-ageing technology, how do you work to sort out the fads from the truly scientifically researched breakthroughs when creating products?
Laurence Dryer: It’s all in the data, but not just any data. It’s easy enough to sort out fad from real when the fad doesn’t come with any data. But nowadays the fad often comes with some data, sometimes seemingly convincing data. Key questions then become: Does the data come from humans or is it a petri dish study on cells? Is the study setup robust, are there enough subjects in the study? Are the results not only statistically significant, but also clinically relevant? I see technologies every day that tout “clinically proven” results, but upon closer examination the data is most often weak and merely provides a nice angle. There are a lot of questions I ask when I first see a new technology, and unfortunately I rarely get convincing answers. In the end, buzzwords are just static in the system: meaningless and temporary.
RESCU: Why do dermatologists and surgeons like to recommend Obagi skincare?
Laurence Dryer: In a word: Efficacy. Every one of our product is not only thoroughly tested for safety, but clinically proven to work. We have a strong relationship based on trust with the Physician community, which transfers to their patients because they in turn have a trust-based relationship with their doctor. We don’t give in to fads, fashionable ingredients or story-driven products. We trust only proven, well-supported, scientifically tested ingredients for our products, and we submit them to the most stringent standards for testing. Our Clinical strength derives from our stringent protocols but also from the involvement of well-known KOL Physicians who often run those studies and can attest to the results.
RESCU: What is the ideal age to start using eye cream?
Laurence Dryer: The under-eye skin area is very thin and delicate and needs special care, and this is true at any age. In this area multiple biological phenomena converge to result in the fatigued look characterised by sagging, lines, puffiness and dark-circles. Whereas sagging and deep lines appear later, things such as puffiness or dark circles can happen at any age, and so we recommend adapting the use of eye product, and especially its form, to your specific needs more than your age. For example, a roll-on serum is ideal for a younger consumer in her late twenties to early thirties, whereas a more emollient cream may be more suitable to a woman (or a man!) in their forties. Whatever your age you must use a dedicated topical line specially formulated for the eye area, products that will not run into the eye but multi-task to remedy all of these signs of ageing. Obagi ELASTIderm™ Eye Gream, Eye Gel and the roll-on Complete Complex Serum contain a breakthrough bi-mineral complex technology that rebuilds the appearance of youthful eyes. The line is clinically proven to revitalise the skin around the eye and restore resilience, and the innovative roller-ball delivery of the serum help massage the look of puffiness and wrinkles away. Finally, always be gentle when applying eye products (pat with your ring finger, don’t rub, don’t pull!).
RESCU: When would we consider using treatment products for the neck and decolletage area?
Laurence Dryer: This typically comes in a woman’s thirties if she has been diligent about her sunscreen routine, earlier if she hasn’t. Freckling appears first, then wrinkles, creepiness and laxity follow. In this area, prevention is key. Many women who take very good care of their face neglect their neck and décolletage. The truth is, sunscreen should be used every day on the face, neck and décolletage alike. When it comes to treatment though, the Obagi ELASTIderm Wrinkle Reducing Lotion is designed to fight wrinkles that result from chronic sun exposure and helps restore elasticity and resilience to the chest area. It contains the same breakthrough technology used in the ELASTIderm eye products and is clinically proven and transformational.
RESCU: If you had to take one Obagi product to a desert island, what would it be?
Laurence Dryer: I am a moisture-maniac as well as middle-aged, so I would say Obagi Hydrate Luxe. It is a luxurious night cream that delivers long-term moisturisation and contains intelligent technologies that work with the skin’s natural circadian rhythms. But that wouldn’t be very wise of me, because, really, what you need the most on a desert island is Sunscreen!
