In case you have been living under a rock, brows are kind of a big deal right now. ‘Big’ being the keyword here.
From the super thin, high arched brow to big and bushy. Now, a more relaxed styled brow adding density with colour is all the rage and in fact, anti-ageing – gotta love that!
image via pinterest
For a few years, women have been trying to re-grow over plucked brow hairs and create a thicker appearance as runway trends showed the bigger the better.
In saying that, everyone has a brow shape suited to his or her own face shape and this should definitely be top of mind when shaping your own brows.
BROW SHAPE
There are certain measurements to make sure you are hitting the mark every time.
Once you set these out in your initial brow overhaul, it should be as easy as general maintenance, rather than having to worry about these points again. Unless you undergo some radical facial surgery, these points will stay the same.
image via pinterest
Using a pencil, measure these points shown above to guarantee your brows are in the correct shape for your facial structure.
This is a very easy guide and will assist to see where the start, peak and finish points should be.
If your brows fall short in any of these start/finish points, that’s where brow makeup can be added to give density, or fill in gaps to fulfil these brow measurements, for that perfect brow.
BROW TRENDS
The look of todays brow is styled yet relaxed, natural yet full, so it can get a little confusing on how much is too much when big brows are concerned.
First step is to get the measurements right, once this is done it will show you what area needs a little extra help with brow makeup.
The trick is to add density and fullness with brow makeup to make your brows pop and fulfil the brow shape you need, without taking over the face and looking visibly drawn in and overdone.
You want a realistic look where you can still see individual hairs and that is all in the brushing of the brow after colour has been applied.
MB PRO TIP;
Never just colour in the entire brow, as most of the time it is only the top edge or outer peak that needs a little help. Colouring in the entire brow can be too much of a block brow, therefore looking artificial.
BROW TONE
The most common mistake I see with brow makeup application is the incorrect shade being used when filling in the brow.
Most go too dark and it makes the brow look very block like and visibly drawn in, rather than a natural shadow behind the brow hair adding density.
When choosing a brow shade to use, I don’t look at the persons hair colour, but at the brow colour.
Not many brows have warmth, or too much brown, but usually an ashy taupe, or a darker grey, black. 90% of all brow makeup I apply is a dull taupe shade as this creates the shadow you need to add depth, without looking too visible.
Many see black hair and a deep grey/black brow and give a black brow pencil. You fill in your brows and next minute they are so dark and drawn in that it’s too much.
A dark taupe gives shading, and once hairs are brushed, you achieve natural depth, not block depth.
I suggest, going a tad lighter than your brow colour with brow makeup as then you can build colour in the areas that need it. So you are not left with a ‘one colour’ look which makes it obvious brow makeup has been applied.
MB PRO TIP;
Brow makeup is like foundation; you should not apply the same thickness on all areas of the face, as this is mask like. Instead only apply to the areas that need it, so brow density is applied naturally and built up not applied in a one-shade type look, which can block brows.
BROW APPLICATION
Everyone has their own little way of filling in the brow, but here is a fool proof way to achieve the ‘now brow’
Instant lift;
Did you know that even without brow makeup applied, you could still look lifted with just a brow brush?
If you brush your brow hairs out to the side of the face, or even worse, downwards, it can relate to how lifted your face looks.
By brushing your brow hairs upward, it can actually assist in the upward lifted look of the entire face, plus making your brows look fuller instantly.
Colour lift;
The squared off looking brow is a great shape to work towards, rather than the old school rounded, tadpole like, brow shape.
Step 1 – Make a light vertical line at inner start point of brow and slightly higher than natural brow line, this squares off the start point of brow.
Step 2 – From extra height of starting vertical line, feather brow product horizontally across top brow line until you reach brow peak. Yes in some cases this could be drawn on your skin and seem visible, but you need to lift the brows higher than natural point to get a fuller, lifted brow, which is anti-ageing.
Step 3 – At brow peak, change direction of brow product and head diagonally out and down to finish point of brow. The outer of your brows often need more shadow depth than inner, as hairs can grow very sporadic in this area.
Step 4 – Check for any gaps in the actual brow area (middle of brow), if none, this area shouldn’t need too much shading as real hairs will give this, it’s the outer and upper edges that will give a change in brow shape.
Step 5 – With a brow brush, brush brow hairs up and over original drawn in upper brow line. The shading will add a shadow behind hairs adding depth, but as hairs are brushed over, this gives height, a natural look and lifts your brows as you see individual hairs. Outer wing of brow should also be brushed outwards, not down.
Step 6 – Once happy with brows, set with brow gel. This ensures brow hairs stay separated and lifted throughout the entire wear.
BROW PRODUCTS
So much has changed since we only had the trusty old brow pencil. The brow market is huge and so it should be, as it does so much for our face with lift and structure.
Here are the main brow products to look out for:
Brow Pencil
The more traditional brow product, but also the most visible if you are not careful, as the sharp end and high pigment can be very drawn in looking.
My advice is to feather so it mimics real brow hairs and great for use in the peak to outer brow mainly.
Brow Powder
One of my favourites of all brow products, as it is quite soft and natural. It creates a light shadow for depth and brow hairs can brush over for a full, yet realistic and everyday effect.
Must use a small angled brow brush for application.
Brow Gel Liner
Brow gel pots are great for when there is not much hair naturally. With a thin brow angled brush, you can mimic real looking hairs with a feathered application and most are water or smudge proof, so your non-brow area is safe from fading away. This can also double up as an eye shadow base.
Brow Mascara
This is great when you have the hairs there, but they could be light in colour or unruly. The brow mascara can come in multiple shades. This can be a colour lift and comb through when on the go and have no time for brow styling.
For darker brows, going a light shade can add highlights through the brow for a non-block brow effect, as it will reflect light, showing off individual brow hairs.
To close this brow masterclass, here is a sneak peek of my two fave brow products in my kit right now.
M.A.C Big Brow Pencil (RRP $32)
I love the chubby application head, it makes applying brow colour quicker and great to brush through. It creates fairly precise start/finish points. Great for general colour application, rather than a very styled brow.
M.A.C Brow Set Clear (RRP $28)
I cannot do a brow without this product. Once you brush your brows through after colour application, they look so good and natural when you see each individual brow hair styled. Brow set does just that, but will make sure the look stays that way all day.
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